Raj Steam - Pakistan Metre Gauge

By the 1990s, with the narrow gauge systems closed and the amount of broad gauge steam much reduced, the flow of visitors to the country and Mirpur Khas in particular slowed to a trickle. A friend of mine, the late John Tillman was working in the country as a transport economist for the World Bank. Inevitably he had no choice but to suggest a programme of rationalisation which would be bad news for steam. While liasing with Pakistan Railways, he was prevented from accepting their hospitality but that did not extend to refusing it for a friend. At the end of 1992, I was in effect their guest for 2 weeks, with a first class pass, accommodation in their bungalows and often a local loco inspector as guide who could negotiate a sensible number of photographic opportunities. At Mirpur Khas, that meant staying within the railway complex and freedom to roam. However, the province of Sindh was considered a security risk and the one time I was allowed out into town, I was advised to take along a gentleman with a shotgun. There was not a lot to see but I was taken to the library which was obviously their pride and joy, whereupon the librarian took one look at our companion and ordered him to stay outside, which he complied with looking somewhat sheepish.

I had 3 days and 2 nights, which was to be enough for a day on the Jhudo Loop and an exit via Nawabshah, the Khokhropar end of the main line being inaccessible for casual visitors owing to its proximity to the Indian border. In the event as you will read, I saw very little of the Jhudo Loop... 

Bernd Seiler had a few days here in March 1997, focusing on the Khokhropar line at a time when security was more relaxed than it had been traditionally.